Types & comparisons · Knife Types
Blade grinds, explained
Everyone quotes the edge angle. The grind — the shape of the whole blade behind that edge — is what decides whether a knife glides through a potato or splits it.
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The grind is the cross-sectional shape of a blade from spine to edge — how the steel thins out as it approaches the cutting apex. It is distinct from the edge angle, which describes only the final tiny bevel at the very tip of that taper. Almost every knife listing quotes the edge angle and says nothing about the grind, which is backwards: the edge angle determines how sharp a knife starts, and the grind determines how it behaves once the food is past the apex.
This is why two knives ground to the same 15° per side can feel completely different. A thin, flat-ground Japanese blade parts a potato and lets the halves fall away. A thick, shallow-tapered Western blade with the same edge angle wedges, and the potato cracks ahead of the cut. Same apex, different geometry behind it.
| Grind | Cross-section | Behavior in food | Common on |
|---|---|---|---|
| Full flat | Straight taper from spine to edge | Slices cleanly, low wedging, good all-round | Japanese gyutos, many quality chef's knives |
| Hollow | Concave sides ground with a wheel | Very thin behind the edge; can wedge once past the hollow | Some Western knives, straight razors, many slicers |
| Convex | Curved, bulging taper | Strong and food-releasing; parts material outward | Cleavers, axes, some premium Japanese knives |
| Compound / saber | Flat above, secondary bevel lower down | Thick spine for strength, thin edge for cutting | Many German forged knives |
| Chisel (single bevel) | Ground on one side only | Extremely keen; steers to one side | Traditional Japanese yanagiba, usuba, deba |
Why "thin behind the edge" is the phrase to learn
If you take one thing from this page, take this: the property that most determines how a kitchen knife feels is how thick the blade is roughly 2–5mm above the edge. That is the zone the food has to push apart after the apex has separated it. A knife that is thin there glides; a knife that is thick there wedges, and wedging is what people are describing when they say a knife "does not go through" despite being sharp.
Japanese knives are generally thinner there than German ones, which is a much better explanation for why they feel superior on vegetables than any difference in edge angle. It also explains why a thin Japanese blade is worse on butternut squash: the same geometry that glides through soft material has less mass and less wedge to force a hard one apart.
Flat grind: the sensible default
A full flat grind tapers in a straight line from spine to edge. It is the most predictable geometry in food — thin enough near the edge to slice cleanly, with a consistent taper that neither sticks nor wedges dramatically. Most good gyutos and a lot of quality Western chef's knives use it, and if you are not sure what you want, it is the right answer.
Hollow grind: thin at the edge, and then a step
A hollow grind is cut with the face of a large wheel, leaving concave sides. Immediately behind the apex it is extremely thin, so it starts very sharp and is easy to resharpen. The catch is what happens deeper: as food passes the hollow it meets the full thickness of the blade fairly abruptly, which can cause wedging in tall, dense items. Hollow grinds are excellent on slicers and thin work, less ideal on a knife you use for everything.
Note that a hollow grind is not the same as a Granton or hollow edge. The oval dimples on a santoku or slicer are scallops ground into the flat of the blade to reduce suction; the grind itself may be flat. The two terms get used interchangeably and should not be — and neither has anything to do with serrations, which are cut into the edge itself.
Convex grind: strong, and it pushes food away
A convex grind bulges outward instead of tapering straight. It leaves more steel behind the edge, which makes it strong — this is why axes and heavy cleavers use it — and its curved face actively pushes material apart as it passes, which improves food release. On kitchen knives you find it on Chinese cleavers and on some premium Japanese blades where it is applied subtly. It is the hardest grind to maintain freehand, because there is no flat to rest against the stone.
Compound grinds and what German knives actually do
Most forged Western chef's knives are not full flat. They taper from the spine and then add a secondary bevel closer to the edge, giving a thick, strong spine and a workable cutting area. This is a deliberate durability decision — it is what lets a German knife survive impacts that would chip a thin Japanese blade — and it is also why those knives wedge more. The two facts are the same fact. See Japanese vs German chef knives.
Single-bevel grinds are a category apart
Traditional Japanese single-bevel knives are ground on one face only, with the other face flat or slightly hollowed. They achieve an extremely keen edge and cut with astonishing precision — and they steer toward the flat side, they are handed, and they sharpen completely differently. They are specialist tools, covered in single bevel vs double bevel knives.
How to judge a grind before you buy
Manufacturers rarely publish the grind, so use proxies. Spine thickness at the heel is often listed and correlates strongly — a blade under about 2mm at the heel is thin-stock Japanese territory; 2.5mm and up is Western forged. Weight for a given length tells the same story from another direction. And if you can hold the knife, look down the spine toward the edge: a straight, even taper is a flat grind, a visible dish is hollow, a bulge is convex.
What the grind means for sharpening
A flat grind is the easiest to maintain freehand: you can lay the bevel on the stone and feel when the angle is right. A hollow grind is also easy and self-guiding near the edge. A convex grind is the hardest, because there is no flat reference — it wants a strop or a soft backing. And once a knife has been sharpened many times, the grind changes: repeated sharpening thickens the area behind the edge, which is why an old knife can feel worse than a new one despite being perfectly sharp. Fixing that means thinning the blade on a coarse stone, which is a real technique and a genuine reason to consider a professional service — local sharpening services.
Which grind should you buy?
For a general kitchen knife: a flat or near-flat grind on thin stock, if your cooking is mostly vegetables and boneless protein. A compound-ground Western knife if you hit bone, squash and joints, or if your kitchen is shared and abused. If you want the thin-stock experience, our Japanese roundup and flagship roundup both prioritize it; if you want durability, the German roundup is the place to start.
How we picked
We did not lab-test these knives
Everyone in this category says they tested twenty knives in a professional kitchen. We have not hands-on tested any of these, and we say so. What we did instead: compiled the published specifications — steel type and hardness (HRC), edge angle, blade geometry, weight and build — applied established sharpening standards, ran the value math (spec quality ÷ live price), and scored each product against a published rubric. The scores are judgments from documented research — not measurements we took, because we do not have a test lab and we will not pretend we do. Where a number came from someone else's work, we name them in Sources.
Questions
Frequently asked
What is the difference between a grind and an edge angle?
Which blade grind is best for a chef's knife?
Is a hollow grind the same as a Granton edge?
Why does my sharp knife still wedge in potatoes?
Can a grind be changed?
Keep reading
Related
- Japanese vs German chef knivesThe grind difference is most of what this comparison is really about.
- Single bevel vs double bevel knivesThe specialist grind that behaves differently in every way.
- Knife sharpening anglesThe other half of blade geometry, and the one you control.
- Chef knife anatomy explainedEvery part of the blade named, including the ones grinds affect.
- Chef's Knife vs SantokuA curved, pointed chef's knife rock-chops; a shorter, lighter santoku push-cuts straight down. Which motion suits your hands — and whether you really need both.
Receipts
Sources
- MAC Knife — blade profile and thin-stock construction
- Wusthof — forged blade taper and bevel construction
- Kai USA (Shun) — blade geometry and edge specifications
We do not run a testing lab, and we do not pretend to. Where a spec or a measured number came from someone else's work — a manufacturer's page, a published standard — we name them and link them. Where we could not verify something, we say so on the page rather than quietly leaving it out. Read our full method.